Madeira rises straight out of the Atlantic in a wall of green cliffs, laurel forest and volcanic rock, some 1,000 kilometres from mainland Portugal. Funchal, its sunny capital, spills down the hillsides in a tangle of cobbled lanes, flower markets and terraced gardens. Beyond the city, ancient levada channels thread through the mountains to hidden waterfalls, jagged peaks pierce the clouds, and black-sand coves and natural lava pools ring the coast. It's an island built for walking, eating well and long, mild days outdoors.
Wander the Zona Velha and the Mercado dos Lavradores, then ride the cable car up to Monte for its tropical gardens. Fly back down towards Funchal in a wicker toboggan, and end the day tasting Madeira wine in an old lodge.
Drive up to Pico do Arieiro at dawn for sunrise above the clouds, then hike part of the ridge towards Pico Ruivo. In the afternoon, follow the Levada das 25 Fontes through the Rabaçal forest to its waterfall amphitheatre.
Stop at the Cabo Girão skywalk for the glass-floor view, then drop into Câmara de Lobos for lunch and a poncha. Carry on around the wild north-west to swim in the natural lava pools at Porto Moniz.
Madeira's third-highest peak at 1,818 metres, often floating above a sea of cloud. Drive up before dawn for a blazing sunrise, or set off on the vertiginous ridge trail to Pico Ruivo, the island's summit.
A classic levada walk that follows a hand-cut irrigation channel through the Rabaçal laurel forest to a green amphitheatre fed by 25 springs. The path is mostly flat but narrow and often wet, so bring sturdy shoes.
A two-kilometre downhill run from Monte to Funchal in a wicker sledge, steered by two straw-hatted carreiros dressed in white. A gloriously daft Madeiran tradition since the 1850s — take the cable car up first for the views.
Funchal's 1940s farmers' market, stacked with custard apples, passion fruit and fearsome scabbard fish on the ground floor. Come in the morning, taste the exotic fruit before you buy, and browse the tiled fish hall.
A glass-floored platform jutting out over one of Europe's highest sea cliffs, with a 580-metre drop to terraced farm plots and ocean below. It's free to visit and dizzying — look straight down through your feet if you dare.
Volcanic rock pools on the island's north-western tip, filled and refreshed by Atlantic waves. Swim in the sheltered turquoise water, then watch the surf crash against the black lava just metres away.
The heart of the capital, where cobbled lanes of painted doors spill down to the seafront, the cathedral and the buzzing Mercado dos Lavradores. Base here for restaurants, bars and the cable car up to Monte.
A photogenic fishing village just west of Funchal, with a colourful harbour of wooden boats and bars serving poncha. Once a favourite of Winston Churchill, who came to paint the bay.
A green, dramatic base on the wild north coast, hemmed in by waterfalls and old coastal cliffs. Handy for exploring the mountains, the Fanal forest and the lush interior.
A small town on the north-western tip, famous for its volcanic swimming pools where Atlantic waves top up the water. A peaceful, scenic base far from the resort crowds.
Chunks of beef rubbed with garlic and sea salt, skewered on a bay laurel stick and grilled over wood embers. Traditionally hung from a hook at the table and eaten with bolo do caco.
A round flatbread cooked on a hot basalt stone and slathered with garlic-and-parsley butter. Served everywhere as a snack or alongside grilled meat and fish.
Fillets of black scabbard fish, a deep-sea creature landed off Madeira, fried and served with fried banana and often a passion-fruit sauce. Sweet, savoury and unmistakably local.
The island's punchy drink, made with sugarcane spirit, honey and lemon or passion-fruit juice, stirred with a wooden mexelote. Order one in a Câmara de Lobos bar and sip slowly.
Madeira is a year-round destination, mild in every season thanks to its Atlantic latitude. Spring (March–May), when the gardens burst into flower, and early autumn (September–October) are the sweet spots for walking; summer is warm and busiest, while winter stays gentle but wetter in the north.
A rental car gives you the freedom to reach mountain viewpoints, levadas and the north coast, though the roads are steep and winding. Funchal has a good local bus network, and buses reach the main towns, but connections to trailheads can be slow — many walkers use guided transfers or taxis to link the ends of a levada walk.
A realistic daily budget per person, in three styles.
Madeira offers a range of options to suit different travel budgets.
