Habana Vieja on foot
Start with a strong cortadito from a street window and walk the four colonial squares, from Plaza Vieja to Plaza de la Catedral. Visit the Capitolio, lunch in a paladar and end the day on the Malecón at sunset.
Cuba's capital is a city of peeling pastel facades, salt-sprayed sea walls and 1950s American cars rolling past to a soundtrack of live son and salsa. Time seems to have stopped somewhere in the mid-20th century, yet Havana pulses with music, rum and an easy, unhurried warmth.
Wander the restored squares of Habana Vieja by day, then join locals along the Malecón at dusk, when the whole city spills out to watch the sun sink into the Straits of Florida. It is romantic, weathered and utterly alive.
Start with a strong cortadito from a street window and walk the four colonial squares, from Plaza Vieja to Plaza de la Catedral. Visit the Capitolio, lunch in a paladar and end the day on the Malecón at sunset.
Hire an open-top vintage car for a spin along the Malecón to Vedado, past the Hotel Nacional and the Necrópolis cemetery. On Sundays catch the rumba at Callejón de Hamel, then round off the night at the Fábrica de Arte Cubano.
Head three hours west to the tobacco valley of Viñales and its limestone hills. Ride out across the fields, watch a cigar hand-rolled, and drive back to Havana for dinner.
The UNESCO-listed old town of cobbled squares, baroque churches and fading pastel colonial palaces. Wander from Plaza Vieja to Plaza de la Catedral and let yourself drift between street musicians and drifts of rum and cigar smoke.
The legendary five-mile seawall where all of Havana gathers to fish, flirt and watch the sunset. Come at dusk, when waves crash over the wall and vintage cars roll past in the golden light.
The finest square in the old town, dominated by a baroque cathedral of coral stone with two mismatched towers. Sip a mojito at La Bodeguita del Medio around the corner, once a Hemingway haunt.
Candy-coloured 1950s Cadillacs and Chevys, converted into taxis and open-top city tours. Hire one for an hour and cruise along the Malecón out to Vedado — pure Havana cinema.
A narrow alley in Centro Habana drenched in Afro-Cuban murals and salvaged art. Come on Sunday around noon, when rumba drums kick off and dancers turn the whole street into a party.
A green valley of tobacco fields and forested limestone hills, the mogotes, three hours west of Havana. Ride out to a Vueltabajo tobacco farm and watch a cigar hand-rolled by the farmer himself.
The cobbled old town with its four great colonial squares, museums and finest restaurants. The obvious base for a first visit, with everything within walking distance.
The raw, unvarnished heart between the old town and Vedado, all crumbling terraces and full-throttle daily life. Come here for the Callejón de Hamel and an unfiltered Havana.
The leafy 1950s district of wide avenues, the Hotel Nacional and the city's best nightlife. Ideal for jazz cellars, cinemas and the Malecón at sunset.
The quiet, elegant west of tree-lined streets, mansions and embassies. Good for a smarter, calmer base away from the bustle.
Cuba's national dish of tender, slow-braised shredded beef in a spiced tomato and pepper sauce. Served with rice, beans and fried plantain — order it in a private paladar.
Black beans and rice cooked together with garlic, cumin and a touch of pork. The savoury side that comes with almost every Cuban plate.
White rum, lime, mint, sugar and soda, born in Havana's bars. Drink it ice-cold at La Bodeguita del Medio or on any shady corner.
Rum, lime and sugar, shaken or frozen, perfected at the long counter of El Floridita. Order a daiquiri natural and follow Hemingway's old trail.
The dry season from November to April is the sweet spot: warm, sunny and far less humid. Summer from May to October is hot, sticky and falls in hurricane season, while the Havana Carnival in August fills the streets with conga rhythms.
Habana Vieja is best explored on foot, with all the great squares close together. For longer hops take a classic-car taxi, a yellow coco-taxi or a shared almendrón along fixed routes — always agree the fare before you get in, and bring plenty of cash, as cards rarely work.
A realistic daily budget per person, in three styles.
Havana offers a range of options to suit different budgets.