Perched on a terrace of Monte Tauro, Taormina looks down on a coastline of turquoise coves with the smoking cone of Mount Etna as its backdrop. A Greek theatre carved into the hillside, a medieval main street lined with cafés, and gardens spilling with bougainvillea make it feel like an open-air stage set. Long a haunt of writers and aristocrats — and lately the setting for The White Lotus — it wears its glamour lightly, all granita mornings and golden-hour aperitivi.
Stroll Corso Umberto from Porta Messina, ducking into piazzas and pastry shops, then climb to the Teatro Antico for its unmatched view of Etna framed by ancient stone. Cool off in the Villa Comunale gardens and end with an aperitivo watching the sun set over the bay.
Ride the cable car down to the coast and spend the morning swimming at Isola Bella, the little island reserve joined to shore by a sliver of pebbles. Laze on the Mazzarò coves or take a boat trip to the sea caves, then head back up for dinner in town.
Take a day trip up Europe's most active volcano — a jeep-and-cable-car tour to the craters, or a wine tasting on its lava-rich slopes. Or keep it gentle and walk (or bus) up to Castelmola for almond wine and the highest views over Taormina.
A Greek theatre rebuilt by the Romans, its ruined arches perfectly framing Mount Etna and the sea beyond. Come for the view alone, or catch a summer opera or concert on the ancient stage.
A tiny islet nature reserve linked to a pebble beach by a thread of sand you can walk at low tide. Snorkel the clear coves around it, then dry off on the shingle beneath the town's cliffs.
Taormina's pedestrian spine, a ribbon of boutiques, gelaterie and baroque squares between two old gate-towers. Walk it in the evening passeggiata, pausing at Piazza IX Aprile for its chessboard terrace over the sea.
Lush public gardens laid out by an English noblewoman, full of exotic plants and whimsical brick follies. A shady, fragrant balcony over the coast — perfect for a midday breather.
Europe's largest active volcano looms over Taormina, snow-capped in winter and often trailing smoke. Join a jeep-and-cable-car tour to the summit craters or taste the mineral wines grown on its slopes.
A stone-built village crowning the ridge above Taormina, reached by bus, taxi or a steep footpath. Sip almond wine in its square for the highest, dreamiest view down over the town and the bay.
The pedestrian heart, strung between Porta Messina and Porta Catania along Corso Umberto. Baroque churches, panoramic piazzas and boutiques, with the Greek theatre at the top of the hill.
Taormina's beach quarter far below the town, reached by a cable car that glides down the cliff. Pebble coves, swimming platforms and the tiny nature-reserve island of Isola Bella.
A laid-back seaside town just south, with a long sandy bay, cheaper hotels and a proper local buzz. A good-value base with easy buses up to Taormina.
A tiny stone village crowning the ridge above Taormina, even higher and quieter. Famous for its almond wine and jaw-dropping views down to the coast.
Golden fried rice balls stuffed with ragù and peas or ham and mozzarella. In eastern Sicily they're often cone-shaped — grab one from a friggitoria as a walking lunch.
Semi-frozen granita in almond, lemon or coffee, scooped into a soft brioche col tuppo. The Sicilian breakfast — order it with cream on a summer morning.
The Catania classic of pasta with fried aubergine, tomato, basil and salty ricotta salata. Named for Bellini's opera and on every Taormina menu.
Crisp fried pastry tubes filled to order with sweet sheep's-milk ricotta and candied fruit or pistachio. Never buy them pre-filled — the shell must still crackle.
Late spring (May–June) and early autumn (September–October) bring warm sea, long light and thinner crowds. July and August are hot, glamorous and very busy; winter is mild and quiet, with many beach places closed but the town still lovely.
The old town is compact and walkable, though steep and stepped. A cable car (funivia) links the centre to the Mazzarò beaches, and local buses run down to Isola Bella, Giardini Naxos and up to Castelmola. Come by train to Taormina-Giardini station then bus or taxi up; a car is more hassle than help, as the centre is pedestrianised with tricky parking.
A realistic daily budget per person, in three styles.
Taormina is generally considered a moderately expensive destination.
