Cagliari & the south
Explore the capital's Castello quarter, the Bastione di Saint Remy and its Roman ruins, then unwind on Poetto beach. Eat fregola and seafood in the lively Marina district come evening.
Sardinia is a world apart in the middle of the Mediterranean, where Caribbean-blue water meets ancient granite and windswept uplands. The coast runs from the glossy Costa Smeralda to hidden coves reachable only by boat.
Inland rise Bronze Age towers, jagged mountains and quiet shepherd villages where a language and customs all their own live on. Add some of Europe's best beaches, hearty food and a rhythm slower than the mainland's.
Explore the capital's Castello quarter, the Bastione di Saint Remy and its Roman ruins, then unwind on Poetto beach. Eat fregola and seafood in the lively Marina district come evening.
Drive inland to the UNESCO nuraghe of Su Nuraxi at Barumini, then push on to the east coast and the Gulf of Orosei. Take a boat from Cala Gonone to Cala Luna for a swim in clear, deep water.
Explore the Costa Smeralda and its granite coves, then boat out from Palau to the La Maddalena archipelago. Close the day with seafood and sunset on Alghero's ramparts.
A crescent of pale sand backed by limestone cliffs and sea caves, reachable only by boat or a rugged coastal hike. Catch a boat from Cala Gonone to swim in water that shades from jade to deep blue.
The walled hilltop heart of the island's capital, a maze of pastel alleys, watchtowers and a honey-coloured cathedral. Climb to the Bastione di Saint Remy at dusk for rooftops and a sweep of the sea.
A 3,500-year-old Bronze Age stone tower and village, the finest of Sardinia's thousands of nuraghi and a UNESCO site. Join a guided tour at Barumini to climb inside the basalt fortress.
A cluster of granite islands and blindingly turquoise coves off the north-east coast, protected as a national park. Take a day boat from Palau to swim off Spargi and see Budelli's famous pink-tinged sand.
A tumble of candy-coloured houses climbing to the Malaspina castle above the Temo river on the west coast. Wander the old Sa Costa quarter, then drive the wild coast road toward Alghero at sunset.
A cathedral of stalactites and an underground lake carved into the sea cliffs of Capo Caccia, near Alghero. Descend the 654-step Escala del Cabirol staircase or take a boat, then walk the lit chambers.
The sun-soaked capital in the south, crowned by the walled Castello quarter and fringed by the long Poetto beach. Great for a mix of city life, history and easy access to the southern coast's beaches.
The glamorous north-east of jagged coves, marinas and turquoise water around Porto Cervo. Best for drifting between famous beaches like Capriccioli and a polished nightlife scene.
A Catalan-flavoured port town in the north-west, with honey-coloured ramparts, seafood and the coral coast nearby. Perfect as a base for sunsets on the city walls and trips out to Capo Caccia.
The main island of a granite archipelago off the northern tip, reached by ferry from Palau. Ideal for boat-hopping between vivid turquoise coves and sheltered island beaches.
Hand-pleated pasta parcels shaped like ears of wheat, stuffed with potato, pecorino and mint, served in tomato sauce. A classic from the Ogliastra — order them in an inland trattoria.
Spit-roasted suckling pig scented with myrtle wood and crisp-skinned, the centrepiece of any Sardinian feast. Eat it slowly with crackling pane carasau and a bold red wine.
Toasted semolina pearls simmered with clams, tomato and a whisper of saffron. A dish of the coast — seek it out in Cagliari or around the Santa Gilla lagoon.
Sardinia's deep, robust red wine made from the Grenache grape, poured on the island since the nuraghi were built. Have a glass with porceddu or aged pecorino.
Late spring (May–June) and early autumn (September) are ideal: warm sea, plenty of sun and far fewer people than high summer. July and August are hot, blazing and pricey, while winter is mild but quiet, with coastal resorts shuttered.
A rental car is all but essential to reach the island's hidden coves and mountain villages, as buses are infrequent and rail lines limited. Ferries sail from Genoa, Livorno, Civitavecchia and Barcelona, and flights land at Cagliari, Olbia and Alghero; boats cross to La Maddalena from Palau.
A realistic daily budget per person, in three styles.
Sardinia offers a range of options for different budgets, from affordable to luxurious.