Outer reef
Take an early boat to the outer Great Barrier Reef and spend the day snorkelling or diving over the coral gardens. Head back to the Esplanade, dip in the lagoon and have dinner by the water.
Cairns is Australia's tropical northern gateway, where rainforest runs down to the sea and the world's largest reef sits just offshore. The town itself is easygoing and open, more springboard than sight, built for boating, snorkelling and lazing in the humid warmth.
Behind the waterfront the land climbs to the waterfalls and crater lakes of the Atherton Tablelands, while to the north the ancient Daintree stretches up to Cape Tribulation. Reef, rainforest and highlands all sit within a day-trip, which is why Cairns feels more like a base camp than a destination.
Take an early boat to the outer Great Barrier Reef and spend the day snorkelling or diving over the coral gardens. Head back to the Esplanade, dip in the lagoon and have dinner by the water.
Drive north across the ferry into the Daintree Rainforest, where jungle meets the reef at Cape Tribulation. Walk the raised boardwalks, take a crocodile river cruise and swim at a tropical beach.
Ride the scenic railway up to Kuranda and take the Skyrail over the canopy on the way back. Extend the day with a loop through the Atherton Tablelands for waterfalls, crater lakes and a coffee plantation.
The largest coral reef system on Earth, a glowing maze of coral, turtles and reef fish off the coast of Cairns. Book a day-trip boat to the outer reef to snorkel or dive over the coral gardens.
One of the oldest living rainforests on Earth, where ancient jungle meets the reef at Cape Tribulation. Walk the raised boardwalks, watch for cassowaries and take a river cruise to spot crocodiles.
A mountain village above the rainforest, reached by the historic scenic railway or the Skyrail cableway that glides over the canopy. Ride up one way and back the other, stopping at waterfalls and lookouts along the route.
A free saltwater swimming lagoon on the waterfront, ringed by lawns, barbecues and palm trees. Since you can't swim off the city's shore because of jellyfish and crocodiles, the lagoon is the social hub for a dip and a laze.
A tiny rainforest-covered coral cay sitting right on the reef, a short catamaran ride from Cairns. Snorkel straight off the white-sand beach, follow the jungle trails and glide over the coral in a glass-bottom boat.
A cool, green highland behind Cairns, dotted with waterfalls, crater lakes and dairy pastures. Drive the waterfall circuit around Millaa Millaa Falls, stopping at cheese makers and coffee plantations.
Cairns' lively waterfront, home to the swimming lagoon, barbecues and a run of bars and cafés. The best place to stay for walking to restaurants and the reef-tour jetties.
The compact centre packed with tour operators, the night market and most of the hostels and hotels. Handy, loud and geared around backpackers and boat trips around the clock.
A calm beachside suburb to the north, lined with melaleuca trees, spa resorts and quiet sand. Ideal if you want to trade the bustle for a slower, more relaxed Cairns.
A stylish coastal town an hour's drive north, keeping the reef and Daintree within reach. Choose it for Four Mile Beach, finer dining and the closest hop out to the outer reef.
Northern Australia's iconic white fish, grilled or crisp-fried and served with lemon. Eat it by the water, ideally caught fresh from the region's rivers.
Mud crab, tiger prawns and oysters come straight from the tropical waters around Cairns. Grab a seafood platter or a bag of cooked prawns to share on the wharf.
The Tablelands supply mango, passionfruit, papaya and curiosities like black sapote. Graze your way through Rusty's Market or treat yourself to a tropical ice cream.
The classic Australian milk coffee, strong and velvety, made for Cairns' café culture. Order one in the shade, made with beans grown locally up in the Tablelands.
The dry season from May to October is the sweet spot: warm days, cool nights, calm seas and barely any rain. The wet season from November to April is hot, humid and rainy, and from November to May marine stingers make swimming in the open sea dangerous — stick to the lagoon and the nets then.
The centre and Esplanade are easy on foot, and most reef and rainforest tours pick you up from your hotel. For the Tablelands, Daintree and northern beaches it's best to hire a car, while the scenic railway and Skyrail cableway are the loveliest ways up to Kuranda.
A realistic daily budget per person, in three styles.
Cairns offers a range of options suitable for various budgets.