Latvia's capital packs a cobbled medieval old town, the densest Art Nouveau district on earth and a rowdy bar-and-coffee scene onto the banks of the Daugava river. It's one of Europe's cheapest and least crowded capitals — big-city in feel but still with a whiff of secret about it.
Walk from the spires and guild houses of Vecrīga out to the grand boulevards of the new town, then to the buzzing Central Market and the pubs of hip Miera iela. Forest, beach and lakes are all within a short train ride.
Lose yourself in the lanes of Vecrīga, from the House of the Blackheads to the Cathedral and the Three Brothers houses. Take the lift up St. Peter's Church tower for views over the red rooftops, then wind down in an old-town bar.
Wander the Art Nouveau district along Alberta iela and Elizabetes iela, craning your neck at Eisenstein's facades. In the afternoon, dive into the Central Market in its Zeppelin hangars and graze on smoked fish and rye bread.
Take the suburban train to the Baltic coast at Jūrmala and walk the white-sand beach and the wooden villas of Majori. Back in Riga, round off the evening with grey peas and a glass of Black Balsam.
An ornate, brick-red guild hall on Town Hall Square, its Renaissance facade studded with astronomical clocks and gilded figures. Flattened in the war and rebuilt to the original, it's the most photogenic building in the old town.
The showpiece street of the world's densest Art Nouveau district, lined with facades of masks, sphinxes and screaming faces by Mikhail Eisenstein. Tilt your head back and walk slowly — every building is a work of art.
One of Europe's biggest markets, housed in five vast pavilions made from old Zeppelin hangars. Weave between smoked fish, soured milk, forest berries and mounds of rye bread, and eat where the locals eat.
The slender spire of this Gothic church rises above the old town rooftops, and a lift carries you up to the viewing gallery. From the top, a sea of red-tiled roofs unfolds all the way to the Daugava river.
A ribbon of white-sand beach on the Gulf of Riga, backed by pine forest and whimsical wooden villas. Just half an hour by train, it's the city's summer escape for swimming, strolling and coffee in the spa town of Majori.
A jet-black herbal liqueur of two dozen botanicals, brewed to a secret recipe since 1752 and proudly bitter. Try it neat in an old-town bar, or mixed with blackcurrant juice if the full hit is too much.
The medieval heart of cobbled lanes, church spires and guild houses around Cathedral Square. Compact, walkable and packed with bars — perfect for your first day.
The elegant new town of wide boulevards and hundreds of Art Nouveau facades around Alberta iela. Best for architecture, cafés and the finer museums.
Riga's hippest quarter, a street of coffee roasters, vintage shops and the Laima chocolate factory. Come for independent bars and a laid-back, creative vibe.
A leafy district of wooden architecture on the left bank of the Daugava, with a beautifully restored market hall. Quieter and more residential, good for an afternoon off the tourist trail.
Latvia's national dish: earthy grey peas fried with bacon and onion, served with a glass of buttermilk. Hearty, rustic and on every traditional tavern menu.
Dark, dense sourdough rye is the backbone of Latvian cooking, and even turns up as a sweet dessert with whipped cream and cranberries. Buy a loaf at the Central Market.
Baltic sprats, eel and mackerel smoked golden along the coast, salty and rich. Buy it straight from the smokehouse stalls at the Central Market and eat it with bread.
Riga's iconic jet-black herbal liqueur, brewed to a secret recipe since 1752. Drink it neat, in coffee, or mixed with blackcurrant juice.
May to September is the sweet spot: long, mild days, pavement cafés and Jūrmala beach within reach. December turns the old town magical with Christmas markets and mulled wine, but November to March is dark and bitterly cold.
The old town and centre are best explored on foot, with everything close together. For longer hops there's a cheap network of trams, trolleybuses and buses, and the suburban train reaches Jūrmala in half an hour.
A realistic daily budget per person, in three styles.
Riga offers a variety of options to suit different travel budgets.
