Split is a city that lives inside a Roman monument: Emperor Diocletian's 1,700-year-old palace still forms the walls, cellars and lanes of the Old Town, where cafés and apartments occupy imperial stonework. Come evening the marble Riva promenade fills with locals on their passeggiata, palm trees overhead and the Adriatic glittering beyond.
Beyond the walls, Split is unmistakably Dalmatian: pine-covered Marjan Hill drops to hidden coves, the green market spills over with figs and olive oil, and ferries fan out to Hvar, Brač and beyond. It's a base with a beach and a big personality.
Start at the Peristyle, descend into the Roman cellars, then climb the Cathedral of St. Domnius bell tower for the rooftop view. Wander the Green Market and finish with a sunset stroll and drink along the Riva.
Hike up through Veli Varoš to the Marjan viewpoint and its clifftop chapels, then descend to Kašjuni cove for a swim. Return via Bačvice to watch locals play picigin in the shallows before dinner in a Veli Varoš konoba.
Catch a morning catamaran to Hvar Town or Bol on Brač for the Zlatni Rat beach, or take the cheap bus to UNESCO-listed Trogir. Nature lovers can swap this for Krka National Park's waterfalls.
Not a museum but a living quarter: this 1,700-year-old Roman palace still forms the Old Town, its cellars, Peristyle and marble lanes woven with cafés and homes. Enter the labyrinth free at any hour — the atmospheric cellars, a Game of Thrones location, need a ticket.
The oldest cathedral still in use in the world, built into Diocletian's own mausoleum and crowned by a slender Romanesque bell tower. Climb its narrow, exposed steps for the best close-up view over the palace rooftops and harbour.
Split's marble seafront promenade, lined with palms and café tables facing the Adriatic. Join the evening passeggiata when locals, street musicians and ice-cream seekers fill it — it's the city's living room at sunset.
A pine-forested peninsula rising 178m right beside the Old Town, laced with trails, hermit chapels and clifftop viewpoints. Climb the stone steps from Veli Varoš to the Vidilica terrace for a sweeping panorama of the city and islands.
Split's rare sandy bay, shallow enough to wade far out — the home of picigin, a local game of splashing keep-ups played year-round. By night the surrounding bars turn it into the city's nightlife hub.
Split's open-air market just outside the palace's Silver Gate, heaped each morning with figs, cherries, olive oil, cheese and lavender. Come early to shop like a local and assemble a picnic for Marjan.
Base yourself inside or beside the palace walls to wake up on marble lanes, steps from the Peristyle, cathedral and Riva. Rooms are atmospheric but can be noisy in high summer — pick a courtyard-facing one.
A 16th-century fishermen's quarter of steep stone alleys climbing toward Marjan, dotted with family konobas. It feels village-like yet sits a five-minute walk from the Riva.
The go-to for beach and nightlife, built around Split's famous sandy bay and a strip of late-night bars. It's handy for the ferry and bus terminals and still walkable to the Old Town.
West of the centre between Marjan forest and the sea, this leafy residential area trades nightlife for quiet, sea views and easy access to Kašjuni beach and the hiking trails.
Dalmatia's celebration dish: beef marinated for a day, then slow-braised with prunes, red wine and spices until meltingly tender, served over homemade gnocchi. Look for it on konoba menus as 'pašticada s njokima'.
Meat or octopus and vegetables slow-roasted under a bell-shaped iron lid buried in embers, emerging smoky and falling apart. It must be ordered several hours ahead, so plan your dinner at lunchtime.
Black risotto stained with cuttlefish ink — intense, briny and glistening, usually finished with a little parmesan. Order a glass of local Pošip white to go with it.
Whole sea bass or dorada, or a plate of charcoal-grilled sardines, dressed simply with olive oil, garlic and Swiss chard (blitva). Head to a back-street konoba rather than the Riva for the honest price.
May, June and September are the sweet spot: warm sea, long days and thinner crowds than the July–August peak, when temperatures soar and the Old Town packs out. Winter is mild and quiet but many islands and beach spots wind down.
The compact Old Town is walkable and largely car-free. The ferry port, bus and train stations sit side by side just east of the palace, making island day trips easy — take a catamaran to Hvar or Brač, or local bus 37 to Trogir. Book summer catamaran tickets the evening before, as early sailings sell out.
A realistic daily budget per person, in three styles.
Split offers a range of options to suit different budgets.
