Ubud and the heartland
Start in the morning light at the Tegallalang rice terraces, then head to Tirta Empul for a purification dip. Spend the afternoon in Ubud's Monkey Forest and art market, and dine with a rice-paddy view.
Bali packs into one island what other countries spread across a whole region: terraced rice fields, mist-wrapped volcanoes, clifftop temples and beaches for every level of surfer. The cultural heart beats in Ubud, inland, while the south draws crowds with beach clubs, warungs and long peeling waves.
Balinese Hinduism is everywhere - in the offerings on the pavements, the morning incense, the ceremonies that stop traffic. Rent a scooter or hire a driver, split your days between the north and the south, and build in extra time: the traffic is slow, but the journey is part of the show.
Start in the morning light at the Tegallalang rice terraces, then head to Tirta Empul for a purification dip. Spend the afternoon in Ubud's Monkey Forest and art market, and dine with a rice-paddy view.
Set off early for the sunrise trek up Mount Batur. On the way back, swim beneath Tegenungan waterfall or soak in the hot springs by Lake Batur before resting up in Ubud.
Drive out to the Bukit Peninsula, laze on Padang Padang or Bingin beach, then reach Uluwatu Temple for the Kecak fire dance. End with grilled fish, feet in the sand, on Jimbaran Bay.
Pura Luhur Uluwatu clings to a 70-metre limestone cliff above the roaring Indian Ocean. Stay for the sunset Kecak fire dance on the open-air stage - arrive early, the tiered seats fill fast.
North of Ubud, these emerald terraces cascade down the valley, fed by the centuries-old subak irrigation system. Come between 7 and 9am for soft light and empty paths before the tour buses roll in.
This sea temple sits on a rock that the tide cuts off from the mainland twice a day. Golden hour here is pure magic - stand on the cliff to the right to catch the silhouette against the sinking sun.
At this holy spring temple near Tampaksiring, worshippers have lined up under the fountain spouts for a purification ritual, the melukat, for over a thousand years. Rent a sarong, move through the pool left to right, and don't skip the cold-water spouts.
The climb up this active volcano starts around 3:30am in the dark and takes about two hours to the 1,717-metre summit. At the top, an egg steamed in volcanic vents warms you as the sun breaks over Lake Batur and the cone of Mount Agung.
An hour by boat east of Bali, this wilder island is home to the famous T-Rex-shaped cliff above Kelingking Beach. The steep scramble down to the turquoise sand is slippery and sweaty - sturdy shoes and plenty of water pay off.
The cultural and spiritual core, ringed by rice fields, yoga retreats and art markets. The ideal base for temples, waterfalls and the volcano country inland.
The buzzy coastal hub for surfers, digital nomads and soy-latte cafes. Black-sand beaches, beach clubs and the island's longest sunsets.
Bali's most polished address, with designer boutiques, high-end dining and stylish beach clubs. Handy for a comfortable first or last night.
The clifftop peninsula in the far south, home to world-class surf breaks, hidden coves and the famous cliff temple. Quieter and more dramatic than the scene up north.
Whole suckling pig turned over an open fire until the skin crackles, seasoned with the base gede spice paste. It's a brunch dish in the warungs - come early, the best often sells out by lunch.
Minced fish or chicken with coconut and spices, pressed around lemongrass stalks and grilled over coals. Smoky, fragrant and about as quintessentially Balinese as food gets.
Duck wrapped in banana leaf and slow-cooked for hours until the meat falls off the bone. A ceremonial dish best pre-ordered ahead of time.
A plate of rice ringed by a pick-and-mix of small sides - satay, lawar, egg, sambal, vegetables. The most honest and affordable way into Balinese cooking, found in any warung.
The dry season from April to October is ideal: sunny days, lower humidity and the best conditions for volcano climbs and rice-field walks. July and August are the busiest and priciest. The wet season from November to March brings short, heavy afternoon downpours but lush green landscapes and lower prices.
There's no real public transport - most people rent a scooter or hire a driver for the day, which is surprisingly cheap. Apps like Grab and Gojek work in the south but are restricted in some areas. For Nusa Penida or the Gili Islands, fast boats leave from Sanur and Padang Bai.
A realistic daily budget per person, in three styles.
Bali offers a range of options to suit various budgets.