Royal Seoul
Gyeongbokgung Palace (catch the guard-changing ceremony), Bukchon Hanok Village, Insadong crafts and the hanok cafes of Ikseon-dong.
Seoul moves at two speeds at once. Behind the glass towers of Gangnam and the neon of Hongdae sit six-century-old palaces, hanok lanes and tea houses that never left. It's a city where you can watch a royal guard-changing ceremony in the morning and lose yourself in an underground mega-mall by afternoon.
The real magic is in the details: a steaming bowl of kalguksu at a market stall, cherry blossoms along the Han River, a rooftop bar glowing over Namsan. Efficient, safe and open late, Seoul rewards the curious at every hour.
Gyeongbokgung Palace (catch the guard-changing ceremony), Bukchon Hanok Village, Insadong crafts and the hanok cafes of Ikseon-dong.
Breakfast at Gwangjang Market, a walk along Cheonggyecheon stream, shopping in Myeongdong and sunset at N Seoul Tower on Namsan.
Dongdaemun Design Plaza, the Starfield Library inside COEX (Gangnam), then dinner and bars in Hongdae.
The grandest of Seoul's five royal palaces, built in 1395 as the seat of the Joseon dynasty. Time your visit for the colourful guard-changing ceremony, or rent a hanbok to enter for free.
Hundreds of tiled-roof hanok houses line the steep lanes between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung. It's a living neighbourhood, so wander quietly and find the rooftop view down Gahoe-dong lane.
Perched atop Namsan mountain, the tower crowns the city with 360-degree views, best at dusk. Ride the cable car up and hang a love-lock on the terrace railings.
Seoul's most beloved food market, a maze of stalls frying bindaetteok and rolling mayak kimbap. Squeeze onto a plastic stool and order the mung-bean pancake with a bowl of makgeolli.
Zaha Hadid's silvery, spaceship-like landmark anchors the Dongdaemun fashion district. Come after dark for the LED rose garden and the all-night wholesale markets nearby.
The student quarter around Hongik University pulses with live bands, buskers, bars and indie cafes until dawn. Start on the main 'Playground' street and follow the music into the side alleys.
Traditional hanok houses on a hillside between two palaces. Base here for old-Seoul atmosphere, tea houses and cobbled lanes.
Central shopping and street-food hub, well-connected and close to the palaces. Convenient but touristy and pricier.
Youthful, arty district around Hongik University, packed with live music, bars and indie cafes. Best value and best nightlife.
Sleek, upscale district south of the river with luxury boutiques, the COEX mall and the Starfield Library.
Grill your own marinated pork belly (samgyeopsal) or bulgogi at the table and wrap it in lettuce with ssamjang. Best in a loud grill house in Mapo.
Chewy rice cakes in a fiery gochujang sauce, the queen of street food. Best from a tent stall (pojangmacha) in Myeongdong.
Crispy mung-bean pancakes and addictive mini seaweed rolls at Gwangjang Market. Perfect with a jug of makgeolli.
Cold buckwheat noodles in an icy broth, a summer essential. Add the spicy mustard and vinegar before you slurp.
Spring (April to June) and autumn (September to November) are ideal, with cherry blossoms first, then fiery foliage, and mild days throughout. Summers are hot, humid and bring monsoon rain in July; winters are cold and dry with occasional snow.
The subway is clean, cheap and signed in English; grab a T-money card at any convenience store and top it up. Taxis are affordable and Kakao T works like Uber. Easy day trips reach the DMZ, Nami Island and Suwon's fortress.
A realistic daily budget per person, in three styles.
Seoul offers a range of options to suit various budgets.