Cusco on foot & acclimatising
Take it slow: Plaza de Armas, the Cathedral and Qorikancha, then climb up through San Blas. Head to Sacsayhuamán for sunset and end with a pisco sour on the square.
Perched at 3,400 metres in a fertile Andean valley, Cusco was once the capital of the Inca Empire and today is the gateway to the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu. The Spanish built their churches and mansions straight onto flawless Inca foundations, so every lane tells its story in two layers.
Beyond the monuments, Cusco is a living Andean city: market women in bright polleras, steaming soup kitchens, an artists' quarter and bars where pisco sours flow late. Give your first day to acclimatising, then let the whole centre open up on foot.
Take it slow: Plaza de Armas, the Cathedral and Qorikancha, then climb up through San Blas. Head to Sacsayhuamán for sunset and end with a pisco sour on the square.
Day trip to the salt terraces of Maras, the circular terraces of Moray and the market at Pisac. Sleep in Ollantaytambo to catch an early train the next morning.
Early train to Aguas Calientes and bus up to the citadel, ideally with a guide. Back to Cusco by evening, with good food to round off the trip.
The arcaded main square is Cusco's beating heart, framed by the Cathedral and the Iglesia de la Compañía. Grab a balcony seat with a coca tea and watch Inca foundations, colonial arches and modern cafés layer over one another.
Above the city, limestone blocks weighing up to 200 tons interlock seamlessly, laid without mortar. Come in late afternoon when the light turns the zigzag walls gold and the view opens over Cusco's red rooftops.
Cusco's artist quarter climbs the hillside in narrow cobbled lanes of white adobe houses and cobalt-blue balconies. Duck into the artisan workshops and grab one of the city's finest viewpoints from the little plaza at the top.
Once sheathed in sheets of gold, this Temple of the Sun was the Inca Empire's holiest site. The Spanish built the Santo Domingo convent right on top, so flawless Inca stonework and colonial arches now stand wall to wall.
Cusco's great covered market smells of fresh bread, cheese and dozens of potato varieties, while juice stalls pile up fruit you can barely name. Pull up a stool at a food counter for caldo de gallina or chicharrón at a fraction of restaurant prices.
From Ollantaytambo station the train reaches Aguas Calientes in about 1.5 hours, where buses switchback up to the legendary Inca citadel. Book your timed-entry ticket well ahead and go early to catch the terraces in morning mist before the crowds land.
Around the Plaza de Armas, with the Cathedral, Qorikancha, restaurants and tour agencies almost all within walking distance. The best base for a first visit.
The artists' quarter on the hillside, full of studios, cafés and blue balconies. Charming, but the cobbled climb is tiring while you're still acclimatising.
Higher than San Blas, quieter and more local, with jaw-dropping views over the city near Sacsayhuamán. Cheaper, but expect plenty of stairs.
Around the great market: busy, authentic and central, with the cheapest food counters in town. Calmer at night, so choose your lodging with care.
Oven-roasted guinea pig, a feast-day dish since Inca times: crisp skin, tender meat, served with potatoes and ají. Try it in Tipón, the cuy village just south of the city.
Fried pork with giant white corn, sweet potato, raw onion and mint. A hearty weekend breakfast, best eaten standing at a market stall.
Peruvian-Chinese fusion: beef stir-fried with onion, tomato and ají, tossed with fries and served over rice. Deeply satisfying after a day at altitude.
A refreshing drink of purple corn boiled with pineapple, cinnamon and clove. Non-alcoholic, sold everywhere and the perfect partner to a meal.
The dry season from May to September brings clear, sunny days, ideal for hiking and Machu Picchu but also peak season. The rains (November to March) leave things greener and quieter but often wet by afternoon, and the Inca Trail closes every February.
Explore the historic centre on foot, and pick up the Boleto Turístico for the ruins and museums. Taxis are cheap, colectivos run to the Sacred Valley, and Machu Picchu is reached by train from Ollantaytambo — just take your first day slowly for the altitude.
A realistic daily budget per person, in three styles.
Cusco offers a range of options to suit different travel budgets.