Fira and the caldera's edge
Explore the capital, ride the cable car down to the old port, and stroll the cliff path to Firostefani. Wind down with your first sunset from a cafe perched over the caldera.
Santorini is the rim of a flooded volcano: a crescent-shaped island whose whitewashed villages cling like snow to cliffs that plunge 300 metres into an ink-blue sea. The caldera was born around 3,600 years ago in one of history's largest eruptions, and its pull still shapes every sunset.
Behind the famous Oia postcards is an earthier island of vines grown in volcanic soil, Bronze Age ruins and black-sand beaches. Eat fava and tomato fritters, drink bone-dry Assyrtiko, and walk the cliff edge until a boat and a bus carry you to the crater's very rim.
Explore the capital, ride the cable car down to the old port, and stroll the cliff path to Firostefani. Wind down with your first sunset from a cafe perched over the caldera.
Walk or bus to Oia early, lose yourself in its lanes, then descend to Amoudi Bay for a swim. Toward evening, claim a spot by the castle ruins for sunset.
Take a morning boat to Nea Kameni and the hot springs, then spend the afternoon at the Akrotiri ruins and Red Beach. Finish with a wine tasting above the caldera.
On the island's northern tip, whitewashed cave houses and blue church domes tumble down the caldera cliff. Arrive at first light before the cruise crowds and Greece's most photographed postcard is almost yours alone.
This 10 km cliff path links Fira through Firostefani and Imerovigli to Oia, opening a fresh view of the drowned volcano at every bend. Allow three to five hours, set off in late afternoon and time your arrival in Oia for sunset.
This Bronze Age town was sealed under volcanic ash around 1600 BC, earning it the name the Pompeii of the Aegean, with two-storey houses and frescoes preserved beneath a modern roof. The finest wall paintings now hang in the Museum of Prehistoric Thera in Fira.
A boat trip carries you to the black volcanic islet of Nea Kameni in the middle of the caldera, where a short climb reaches the steaming crater rim. The boat then anchors off Palea Kameni so you can swim into its rust-coloured sulphur hot springs.
Santorini's beaches are as dramatic as its cliffs: the red sand and fiery rock of Red Beach near Akrotiri, the black pebbles of Kamari and Perissa, and the moon-white cliffs of Vlychada. Perissa and Perivolos are best for swimming and beachfront tavernas.
Some 300 steps below Oia lies the tiny harbour of Amoudi, where tavernas grill the day's catch right at the water's edge. Order the grilled octopus, swim off the red rocks, and take the donkey path or a water taxi back up.
The island's most photographed village on the northern tip, all cave hotels, boutiques and that legendary sunset. Gorgeous but pricey and packed at midday.
The lively capital and the best base for first-timers: the bus hub, restaurants, bars and a cable car down to the old port. Less romantic than Oia but hugely convenient.
Quiet villages at the caldera's highest point, with the finest views and the trail out to Skaros Rock. Ideal for couples who want a calmer pace.
East-coast beach towns with long black-sand strands, tavernas and better-value stays. Good if you'd rather have the sea than the caldera.
A creamy puree of the island's yellow split peas, served with olive oil, raw onion and capers. The classic opener at any taverna.
Crisp fritters made from Santorini's intense cherry tomatoes with mint and onion. Golden outside, juicy within.
Grilled octopus, sea urchin and the day's catch, best eaten at the water in Amoudi Bay. Order by weight and share.
The bone-dry white Assyrtiko grows on basket-woven vines; sweet Vinsanto is aged from sun-dried grapes. Taste them at Santo Wines or Venetsanos above the caldera.
The sweet spots are late April to early June and September to October: warm sea, open wineries and manageable crowds. July and August run hot and packed; in winter many places close.
All bus routes converge on Fira and are cheap and frequent. For beaches and inland villages, rent a car or quad; ferries dock at Athinios port, and boat tours run out to the volcano.
A realistic daily budget per person, in three styles.
Santorini is generally considered a more expensive destination in Greece.