Old Town & the river
Start on the Old Town Square for the Astronomical Clock, wander Josefov's synagogues, then cross Charles Bridge at golden hour.
Straddling the Vltava beneath a fairy-tale skyline of Gothic towers, Baroque domes and a hilltop castle, Prague is one of Europe's most beautifully preserved capitals. Its medieval core came through the 20th century almost intact, so the walk from the Old Town Square across Charles Bridge up to the castle feels like a stroll through a thousand years of history.
Beyond the postcard centre, the city is younger and looser than it looks: leafy Vinohrady, industrial-chic Holešovice and bohemian Žižkov brim with craft breweries, coffee roasters and dive bars. And with some of the world's best beer at a couple of euros a glass, Prague remains one of the continent's best-value city breaks.
Start on the Old Town Square for the Astronomical Clock, wander Josefov's synagogues, then cross Charles Bridge at golden hour.
Ride tram 22 up to Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral, then stroll down through Malá Strana and finish with a beer on Kampa Island.
Explore leafy Vinohrady and the fortress and views at Vyšehrad, or picnic at Letná's beer garden before a night out in Žižkov.
The 14th-century Charles Bridge arcs over the Vltava lined with 30 Baroque saints, linking the Old Town to the castle side. Come at sunrise to have the cobbles and statues almost to yourself before the crowds and buskers arrive.
The world's largest ancient castle complex crowns the hill above the river, wrapped around the soaring Gothic spires of St. Vitus Cathedral. Wander the tiny Golden Lane, catch the noon changing of the guard and enjoy some of the best views back over the red rooftops.
Prague's grand medieval heart is ringed by pastel façades, the twin Gothic spires of the Týn Church and the 600-year-old Astronomical Clock. On the hour, the clock's little skeleton rings a bell and the twelve apostles parade past its windows.
The Lesser Town tumbles down from the castle in a hush of Baroque palaces, hidden gardens and cobbled lanes far quieter than the Old Town. Duck into the Wallenstein Garden or hunt down the John Lennon Wall on a backstreet near Kampa Island.
Wedged between the Old Town and the river, the Jewish Quarter packs six centuries into a few streets — six synagogues and the haunting Old Jewish Cemetery, one of Europe's oldest, with 12,000 tilting headstones. Its elegant Art Nouveau boulevard, Pařížská, is now Prague's luxury shopping strip.
Above the river bend north of the centre, Letná's leafy plateau serves up a sweeping panorama of Prague's bridges and spires. Its beer garden pours cheap draught under the chestnut trees — the classic spot for sunset with a half-litre in hand.
The medieval core around the Old Town Square and the Astronomical Clock — atmospheric but crowded and pricey.
Baroque palaces and quiet cobbled lanes under the castle, ideal for a romantic base.
Leafy and elegant, full of cafés, wine bars and gastropubs — cheaper than the centre and minutes away by metro.
Bohemian pubs and the TV Tower in Žižkov; galleries, markets and warehouse bars in creative Holešovice.
Marinated beef in a creamy root-vegetable sauce with bread dumplings, cranberries and a swirl of cream — the national dish. Try it at Café Louvre or U Medvídků.
Czech beef goulash, thicker than the Hungarian version and often cooked with dark beer, served with dumplings. Pair it with a Pilsner at a Lokál pub.
A sugar-crusted spit cake sold warm from Old Town stalls — touristy but tasty, and Central European rather than truly Czech.
The birthplace of Pilsner takes beer seriously; order a fresh tank-poured Pilsner Urquell at a traditional hospoda (pub).
Late spring (April–June) and early autumn (September–October) bring mild days, long light and thinner crowds. December glows with Christmas markets on the Old Town Square, though it is cold and busy. July and August are warm but packed; winter is grey but atmospheric and cheap.
The historic centre is compact and best explored on foot. An efficient metro (three lines), trams and buses cover the rest — a 24-hour pass is around 120 CZK, or simply tap a contactless card to ride. Trams 22 and 23 climb to Prague Castle, and Český Krumlov makes a scenic three-hour day trip by bus.
A realistic daily budget per person, in three styles.
Prague offers a range of options to suit various budgets.