Old Town & castle
Start at Edinburgh Castle, walk the Royal Mile down to St Giles' Cathedral and dip into a hidden close. Holyroodhouse in the afternoon, then a Grassmarket pub come evening.
Edinburgh piles itself across seven hills: the jagged medieval Old Town up top, crowned by its castle, and the elegant Georgian New Town spread below. Between them sits an extinct volcano you can climb before breakfast.
It's a city for walkers and readers, for mist and firesides. Every August the Fringe turns every corner into a stage, but the quiet winter months – whisky in a snug pub – are just as much its character.
Start at Edinburgh Castle, walk the Royal Mile down to St Giles' Cathedral and dip into a hidden close. Holyroodhouse in the afternoon, then a Grassmarket pub come evening.
Climb Arthur's Seat in the morning, then stroll the New Town to the National Portrait Gallery. Head up Calton Hill for the skyline at sunset.
Walk through Dean Village along the Water of Leith to Stockbridge for the market. Carry on to Leith in the afternoon for dinner on the Shore.
Perched on the plug of an extinct volcano, the fortress lords over the city and guards the Honours of Scotland – Britain's oldest crown jewels – alongside St Margaret's Chapel, the city's oldest building, raised around 1130. Be there at 1pm for the One O'Clock Gun, fired daily since 1861.
An extinct volcano in Holyrood Park, this 250-metre peak is the city's high point and delivers a 360-degree panorama out to the Firth of Forth. Take the gentler path from Dunsapie Loch and you'll summit in about 30 minutes.
A ten-minute walk from the centre delivers you to a hill crowned with neoclassical monuments, including the unfinished National Monument nicknamed "Edinburgh's Disgrace". Come at sunset for the finest view of the Old Town skyline.
This cobbled spine links the Castle to Holyroodhouse, lined with St Giles' Cathedral, pubs and whisky shops. The real magic hides in the narrow closes branching off it – duck down Mary King's Close to explore the buried streets beneath.
Minutes from the bustle sits this former milling hamlet, its sandstone houses stacked along the river like a set from another century. Follow the Water of Leith Walkway downstream to St Bernard's Well and on into Stockbridge.
From Dolly the cloned sheep to Viking-age silver, this free museum sweeps through nature, world cultures and Scottish invention beneath a soaring Victorian glass roof. Head up to the rooftop terrace for a free panorama over the skyline.
The medieval heart around the Royal Mile – atmospheric, lively and steps from everything, though pricier and busier.
Georgian elegance with wide streets, strong restaurants and the Princes Street shops; an easy base for first-timers.
A village within the city, known for its Sunday market, indie shops and riverside walks along the Water of Leith.
The former port, now creative and food-forward, with waterfront restaurants on the Shore and a lively nightlife.
Scotland's national dish – a savoury offal pudding with mashed turnip and potato. Try the version at Makars Mash Bar near the Lawnmarket.
A thick, creamy soup of smoked haddock, potato and onion. The Fishmarket in Newhaven cooks it fresh to order.
A handheld double-crust pastry packed with seasoned mince. Best straight from the oven at Piemaker on South Bridge.
Finish with a dram of single malt and buttery shortbread. The Old Town's whisky bars run tastings for beginners.
May, June and September bring mild temperatures around 12–18°C, long daylight and prices before the peak. August is festival season – electric but crowded and expensive. Winter is grey with short days, but cosy and cheap.
The centre is best explored on foot, with most sights clustered close together. Trams and Lothian buses fill the gaps; the airport tram takes about 35 minutes. From here, trains reach day-trip towns like Glasgow, Stirling and the Fife coast.
A realistic daily budget per person, in three styles.
Edinburgh offers a range of options to suit different budgets, but overall it can be considered moderately priced.