The walled city on foot
Start at the Torre del Reloj, drift to Plaza Santo Domingo and through San Diego, pausing for coffee in the shade. Climb the ramparts for sunset and toast with a drink above the Caribbean.
Cartagena de Indias is Colombia's Caribbean jewel: a walled colonial city of ochre facades, cascading bougainvillea and salty sea air. Inside the ramparts you lose yourself among horse-drawn carriages, church towers and plazas where cumbia and salsa strike up after dark.
But the city belongs just as much to the water and the heat. Fortresses and art courtyards by morning, a boat out to turquoise islands by afternoon, street food and rum bars in Getsemaní by night, all at a tropical 30C that forces you to slow down.
Start at the Torre del Reloj, drift to Plaza Santo Domingo and through San Diego, pausing for coffee in the shade. Climb the ramparts for sunset and toast with a drink above the Caribbean.
Explore the ramps and tunnels of Castillo San Felipe in the morning, then head up to Convento de la Popa for the sweeping panorama. By evening dive into Getsemaní: street art, Plaza de la Trinidad and salsa at Café Havana.
Take a morning boat to the Islas del Rosario to snorkel over coral reefs. Spend the afternoon on the white sand of Playa Blanca on Barú before heading back to the city.
Ringed by a thick 17th-century stone rampart, the UNESCO-listed old town is a maze of ochre mansions, flower-draped balconies and shaded squares like Plaza Santo Domingo, home to Botero's plump bronze reclining woman. Walk the ramparts at dusk, the Caribbean on one side and the rooftops on the other.
Once the artisans' quarter just outside the walls, Getsemaní is now Cartagena's creative heart, all murals, fluttering bunting and lanes of open-air bars. Come evening, Plaza de la Trinidad fills with street performers, ceviche carts and salsa spilling from the legendary Café Havana.
Begun in 1657, this is the largest Spanish fortress in the Americas, riddled with a maze of ramps and tunnels that helped it repel siege after siege. Climb to the top for the finest sweeping view over the old town and Bocagrande's modern skyline.
About an hour offshore by boat, this coral-reef national park scatters turquoise shallows and palm-fringed sandbars perfect for snorkelling. Day trips usually pair the islands with Playa Blanca, the broad white-sand beach on nearby Barú.
Crowning Cartagena's highest hill, this convent founded in 1607 wraps around a flower-filled courtyard and a chapel to the city's patron, the Virgen de la Candelaria. Its terrace commands the whole bay, the fortress and the open Caribbean, at their best just before sunset.
Cartagena's flavours are Afro-Caribbean and briny-fresh: palenqueras balancing bowls of fruit on their heads, stalls frying arepas de huevo, and ceviche served in a cup to go. Post up at Plaza de la Trinidad after dark and graze the carts with a cold beer in hand.
The core of the walled city, packed with boutique hotels, rooftop bars and the prettiest colonial plazas. Central and endlessly walkable, though the busiest and priciest part after dark.
The quieter, bohemian corner of the old town around the Bellas Artes art school. Minutes from El Centro but with mellower cafés and less of the crowds.
The creative, youthful barrio just outside the walls, all murals, hostels and the best nightlife. Ideal for travellers who choose atmosphere over polish.
The modern high-rise peninsula to the south with city beaches and Caribbean views. Handy for a beach stay, a few minutes' taxi from the old town.
The iconic deep-fried corn pocket with a whole egg cooked inside, golden and crisp. Hunt it down at street stalls in the morning for the best breakfast in town.
Shrimp or fish cured in lime, often with a splash of coconut milk or suero. Frequently served in a cup and scooped with crunchy plantain chips.
A rich seafood stew simmered in coconut milk, the heart of the city's Afro-Caribbean cooking. Best enjoyed at a table with a sea view.
Sweet coconut rice served with a whole fried fish, the definitive coastal pairing. Order it fresh from the beach shacks on Barú.
The dry high season from December to April brings sun, sea breeze and little rain at around 30C. August to November is humid and wet but cheaper. Carnival and holiday weeks are especially crowded and pricey.
The old town and Getsemaní are best explored on foot, with everything tightly packed together. Taxis have no meters, so agree the fare before you get in; boats to the islands and Playa Blanca leave from the Muelle de la Bodeguita.
A realistic daily budget per person, in three styles.
Cartagena offers a range of options to suit different budgets.