Hidden in the desert mountains of southern Jordan, Petra was the capital of the Nabataeans, a caravan-trading people who carved temples and tombs straight into rose-coloured sandstone more than two thousand years ago. You reach it through the Siq, a narrow canyon that suddenly opens onto the towering facade of the Treasury — one of travel's great reveals.
Beyond that first glimpse lies an entire lost city: a Roman-style theatre, colonnaded streets, hundreds of tombs and the vast Monastery high on the ridge. Base yourself in Wadi Musa, wear sturdy shoes, and give it at least two days so you can walk it slowly rather than chase it.
Enter at opening through the Siq to the Treasury, then follow the main trail past the Street of Facades, the Theatre and the Royal Tombs. In the afternoon, climb the roughly 800 steps to the Monastery and catch the ruins glowing at golden hour.
Take the stairway to the High Place of Sacrifice for the best aerial view, then loop down through Wadi Farasa past the Lion Fountain. Rest in the afternoon and return after dark for the candlelit Petra by Night.
Drive north to Little Petra (Siq al-Barid) and the Neolithic village of Beidha, quieter cousins of the main site. Adventurous walkers can instead take the back-door trail from here down to the Monastery, or press on to Wadi Rum.
Framed at the end of the Siq, this 40-metre facade carved from rose sandstone is Petra's signature sight and was in fact a royal tomb, not a treasury. Come at sunrise or climb to the Al-Khubtha viewpoint above for the classic shot from over the crowds.
A 1.2-kilometre slot canyon with walls soaring up to 180 metres, the Siq was the ceremonial entrance to the city and still hides carved water channels and worn votive niches. Walk it slowly in the morning light: the moment the Treasury appears through the crack is the whole point.
Even wider than the Treasury at nearly 50 metres, the Monastery crowns roughly 800 rock-cut steps in the hills above the city. The climb takes about 45 minutes; reward yourself with fresh pomegranate juice at the cafe facing it.
Carved into the flank of Jabal al-Khubtha, this row of monumental facades — the Urn, Silk, Corinthian and Palace tombs — glows gold and streaked red in the late afternoon. An easy climb behind them leads to the best overlook of the Treasury far below.
A stairway of over 600 steps climbs to a Nabataean altar platform perched on cliffs some 170 metres above the valley, once used for religious rites. Descend the quieter Wadi Farasa route past the Lion Fountain and the Garden Tomb to loop back without retracing your steps.
On Monday, Wednesday and Thursday evenings the Siq and Treasury are lit by around 1,500 candles, with Bedouin music and mint tea under the stars. Buy tickets in advance, dress warmly, and hang back once the crowd thins for a quieter moment.
The bustling gateway town right at Petra's gate, packed with hotels, bakeries and shops. Staying here means you can walk to the entrance and be first through the Siq at opening.
The hillside above town, where larger hotels enjoy sweeping views over the valley and cooler evening air. It's a short taxi ride down to the site but rewards you with sunset panoramas.
A Bedouin village on the northern edge of the park, home to many of Petra's guides and stallholders. It's the launch point for the back-door trail and the road to Little Petra.
Deep inside the park, around the Colonnaded Street, Great Temple and Qasr al-Bint, lies the heart of the ancient city. Spend your energy here in the middle of the day when the light floods the ruins.
Jordan's national dish: lamb slow-cooked in a tangy fermented-yogurt sauce called jameed, served over rice and flatbread with toasted nuts. It's a communal plate, traditionally eaten with the right hand.
An 'upside-down' pot of rice, meat and fried vegetables flipped onto a platter at the table. Order it at a family-run spot like Al Wadi or Zawaya in Wadi Musa.
A Bedouin barbecue where meat and vegetables are slow-cooked in an underground sand oven, giving a smoky, tender result. Many desert camps near Petra serve it as a set feast.
A hot dessert of stringy cheese under crisp orange semolina, drenched in sugar syrup and dusted with pistachio. Grab a fresh square from a sweet shop in the evening.
Spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November) are ideal, with warm days and cool evenings perfect for long walks among the ruins. Summer brings fierce desert heat, so start at dawn and rest at midday, while winter can be cold, wet and occasionally snowy. Whenever you come, carry far more water than you think you'll need.
Most visitors base themselves in Wadi Musa and explore the site entirely on foot; horses, donkeys and camels are available but not necessary. The Jordan Pass covers your entry and visa, so buy it before you fly. With a rental car or private driver you can easily add Little Petra, Wadi Rum and the Dead Sea as day trips.
A realistic daily budget per person, in three styles.
Petra offers a range of costs suitable for various travel styles.
