Day-by-day itinerary
4 days, morning to night. Built for a group, easy to bend.
D1
Arrival, Time Out Market, sunset miradouro
MorningLand at Humberto Delgado. Metro red line to Aeroporto → São Sebastião → Baixa-Chiado, or split an Uber XL for the group (~12 EUR). Check into the Airbnb in Chiado, Príncipe Real or Alfama.
AfternoonWalk to the Time Out Market (Mercado da Ribeira). It's touristy but it's the easiest 'everyone picks what they want' lunch in town. Split a few dishes. Then walk up to Miradouro de Santa Catarina.
EveningSunset at Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara. Beers in plastic cups from the kiosk. Dinner at Taberna da Rua das Flores (no reservations — turn up at 7pm sharp). Drink one ginjinha in A Ginjinha do Rossio for tradition.
D2
Alfama, tram 28, fado night
MorningSlow breakfast at Dear Breakfast or Hello, Kristof. Walk into Alfama — the old Moorish quarter. Get lost on purpose. Castle of São Jorge if anyone wants it (entry ~15 EUR, decent view).
AfternoonRide tram 28 for one segment (full route = pickpocket roulette + 2-hour queue). Lunch at Cervejaria Ramiro — go-to for shellfish, expect a queue but it moves. Order ameijoas, garlic prawns, the steak sandwich for dessert.
EveningFado dinner at Mesa de Frades (tiny tile-clad chapel, book 2+ weeks ahead) or A Tasca do Chico (more casual, walk-in). After: drinks on the street in Bairro Alto — the whole neighbourhood spills out, bars give you cups to take outside.
D3
Sintra day trip
Morning8am train from Rossio to Sintra (40 min, ~5 EUR round-trip). Pre-book Pena Palace entry online for 10am. Tuk-tuk or local bus 434 up to the palace from the train station.
AfternoonQuinta da Regaleira after Pena (initiation well, gardens — book online too). Lunch at Tascantiga in Sintra town. Optional: Uber to Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of continental Europe, for the windswept cliff photos.
EveningTrain back to Lisbon late afternoon. Easy group dinner at Taberna Tosca or Pizzeria O Pizzaiolo in Príncipe Real. Drinks at Pavilhão Chinês — bizarre lamp museum that's secretly a cocktail bar.
D4
Belém, pastéis, fly home
MorningBus 728 or tram 15 to Belém. Pastéis de Belém — yes the original — queue is 30 min but moves fast. Eat them warm with cinnamon.
AfternoonWalk along the river: Jerónimos Monastery (exterior is enough), Padrão dos Descobrimentos, the Belém Tower. MAAT museum if anyone's into architecture (free first Sunday of the month). Late lunch at Taberna de Belém.
EveningBack to the Airbnb, repack, sunset beers on the doorstep, Uber to the airport. Half the group will be back here within 12 months.