Southern Higashiyama
Start at dawn among the torii of Fushimi Inari, then move on to Kiyomizu-dera and down the Sannenzaka lanes. Wind down in Gion and the lanterns of Pontocho.
For over a thousand years Kyoto was Japan's imperial capital, and that legacy lives on in more than 1,600 temples, meticulous Zen gardens and lanes where geiko still slip between teahouses. The city moves with the seasons: pink cherry blossom in spring, blazing maple red in autumn.
Behind the headline sights lies a quieter Kyoto of wooden machiya, sake breweries in Fushimi and kitchen lanes where tofu, yuba and obanzai take centre stage. Halve your pace, follow the water along the Philosopher's Path, and let the city unfold slowly.
Start at dawn among the torii of Fushimi Inari, then move on to Kiyomizu-dera and down the Sannenzaka lanes. Wind down in Gion and the lanterns of Pontocho.
Explore the bamboo grove and Tenryu-ji in the morning before the coaches arrive. In the afternoon, cross the city to Kinkaku-ji and the rock garden of Ryoan-ji.
Walk from Ginkaku-ji along the Philosopher's Path to Nanzen-ji and its brick aqueduct. Finish grazing at Nishiki Market, or take a day trip to Nara.
Thousands of vermilion torii gates form tunnels that climb the wooded slopes of Mount Inari. Arrive at dawn to have the famous Senbon Torii to yourself before the crowds.
Towering bamboo stalks filter the light into a green twilight while the wind sets them softly rustling. Pair the walk with the Zen garden of Tenryu-ji right next door.
A three-tiered pavilion sheathed in gold leaf mirrors itself flawlessly in the pond before it. It is at its finest after rain or under fresh snow, when the gold seems to blaze.
Kyoto's most storied geisha quarter preserves wooden machiya, hanging lanterns and the chance to glimpse a geiko hurrying to an appointment at dusk. Respect the photo bans on the private side lanes.
This temple's vast wooden terrace juts over the hillside without a single nail, opening onto a sweeping view of Kyoto. The climb up the Sannenzaka lanes threads past pottery shops and sweet stalls.
A covered lane five blocks long that has supplied Kyoto's kitchens for over 400 years, from pickled vegetables to fresh yuba and sesame tofu. Graze stall to stall on small bites rather than sitting down for a meal.
The eastern hills, laced with the cobbled slopes of Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka and lined with temples, teahouses and Kyoto's most famous geisha quarter. Ideal for a first stay if you want to explore on foot.
The lively heart around Shijo street, with department stores, Nishiki Market and the riverside dining alleys of Pontocho. Central and well connected to subway and bus.
A leafy western fringe of bamboo grove, the Katsura River and the Zen garden of Tenryu-ji. Calmer for the night if you value nature over nightlife.
Handy for day trips to Nara or Osaka and for arriving and leaving by shinkansen. Less charm, but modern hotels and short transfers.
A seasonal multi-course meal born of the tea ceremony that shows each ingredient at its peak. Gion and the Kamo riverside hold houses from casual to Michelin-starred.
Kyoto's humble home cooking of seasonal vegetables, gently simmered in dashi. Small izakaya around Nishiki serve it by the dish alongside sake.
Silken tofu poached in a light kombu broth and dipped in ponzu, a winter classic of temple cuisine. The restaurants around Nanzen-ji have turned it into an art.
Buckwheat noodles in hot broth crowned with sweet-savoury braised herring, invented in Kyoto in 1882. A warming bowl for a cool afternoon.
Spring (late March to early April) and autumn (November) are the loveliest, with cherry blossom and maple red, but also the busiest. Summer is humid and hot, winter clear and quiet with the occasional snow that dusts the Golden Pavilion. For thinner crowds, choose May or early June.
Subway and bus reach most sights; the bus-only day pass has been scrapped, so the Subway & Bus 1-Day Pass (1,100 yen) is now the handiest choice. For Arashiyama or Fushimi, rent a bicycle or ride the Keihan and Hankyu lines along the river. Nara, Uji and Osaka are each under an hour by train.
A realistic daily budget per person, in three styles.
Kyoto offers a range of options to suit different budgets.